How to Prepare for a Puppy
Getting a new dog? Have no idea where to start? Puppies require a great deal more work than an older or trained dog. Save time and effort and prepare yourself before the puppy arrives in your home.
[edit] Steps
Create an area in your house just for the puppy. Common choices include the kitchen, laundry room, or den. This allows your puppy to have a limited area to explore, and a place to feel safe and at home. It provides you with a limited area to clean up after your puppy.
Puppy-proof this area by cleaning well, removing any wires or other items the puppy may chew, remove ornaments or anything the puppy may bump into. Remove anything from this area you don't want soiled, chewed or scratched.
Use non-biting fluid (available at pet stores) on chair legs, couch corners, or anything the puppy might enjoy as a treat. This includes your new Ugg boots, 100 dollar running shoes, the remote control, pens, candles, jackets, books, flowers, pillows, wood boxes, paper, doors, CD's, bottles (can be very dangerous if any kind of medication is contained inside) checkbooks, leather, wires, bags, and anything they could get their jaws on!
Give your puppy a substitute for chewing. Puppies have to chew, it is not their fault, so always provide an alternative for the puppy to the items listed above, like a squeaky chew toy especially made for puppies.
Buy a collar and leash correctly sized for your puppy. Usually collars come in x-small, small, medium, large, and x-large. When choosing a collar at the store, make sure it is not secured by Velcro. This is not very strong against a puppy. Leashes- Most dog owners like to get a long leash for walking and 2-4 foot leash for training along with a training leash and collar if you want your puppy to grow into a good dog.
Buy the correct shampoo. Make sure you choose the right kind of shampoo for your puppy: If he has extra dry skin, try using a special shampoo for such. If his coat gets extra tangely, buy a shampoo to match that need, too.
Buy brushes including a soft brush that can shine the coat and a brush to eliminate knots and mats.
Select a crate of the correct size for your puppy and their growth expectations. Crate training is a powerful method of working with a puppy, but it is not required. Wire crates are often used because the dog can easily see everything around them ameliorating the feeling of punishment and reinforcing the feeling of security and are easy to keep clean. Puppies are used to being confined and look at their crate as their home (den). This is their own space and should not be 'invaded' when they want to be alone.
Select and purchase a high quality food. Do not be fooled by a dog food's brand, reputation or claims on the packet. Many, many commercial dog foods are made from questionable ingredients. It may say chicken, but, do you really know what parts of the chicken are in it? Talk to your vet or pet food supplier, or do your own research on the Internet.
Stock at least two bowls, one for water and the other for food. They do not have to be the same size.
Purchase bedding and any other supplies to let your dog sleep comfortably. Dogs, and especially puppies, suffer stress just like humans. Coming home to a new place is liable to make your puppy tired, and you'll be glad of how much he may sleep.
The first day the puppy will be stressed. Relieve this by putting an old tee shirt in the crate with your pup. This will also help him bond to you better.
[edit] Tips
Wear an old tee shirt for a few days and then give it to your puppy breeder. When they take the puppy out to socialize they can let it play with your old shirt. When you come to take the puppy home it will already recognize your scent.
If you are bringing home your puppy in the car have it's crate in the car. Puppies are used to being confined. Wrap an old towel that you have used recently around a hot water bottle and the puppy should snuggle up and sleep on your way home.
If you lack or cannot find non-biting fluid try sour apples, which often work great.
Get a good dog book and actually read it.
If you are having company over and need to secure your puppy in the crate, he will be going crazy barking and whining. You can sometimes terminate this problem by placing some towels over the crate.
Watch The Dog Whisperer on the National Geographic channel. That guy is amazing!
Buy a crate one size larger than you think the puppy needs. There is usually a puppy barrier that you place inside until your puppy grows up to fit the crate. If he is to be 35 pounds, get a crate for a 50-pound dog size. When the puppy is an adult he will be able to turn around and stretch out comfortably.
[edit] Warnings
Always remove collars or harnesses before a dog goes into the crate as these items could choke the dog by getting caught on the crate wires or latches.
When meeting new dogs or people, approach slowly and never show that you are scared of the new dog or person. They can sense fear and will try to protect or attack you, depending on their personality.
[edit] Related wikiHows
How to Care for Puppies
How to House Train a Puppy
How to Train a Puppy With a Clicker
How to Train or Help a Puppy Stop Crying when Locked up or Outside
How to Name Your New Puppy or Dog
Sunday, November 11, 2007
How to Pick the Dog Breed Thats Right for You
Not sure what kind of dog you want? Choosing a breed can be the hardest part of getting a dog. Read on to discover how to choose the breed that’s right for you!
[edit] Steps
Try making a list of qualities you would like to see in the breed you choose. Do you want an extra-small, small, extra-medium, medium, extra-large, or large dog? A purebred or a mix? Does the breed need to be good with kids?
Check out some books from the library on dog breeds, or look up different breeds on the internet. Make sure to keep in mind the qualities you want this breed to have.
Still can't choose? Try finding some local breeders if your interested in a purebred or visit your local animal shelter. Sometimes the easiest way to choose a dog is to come face-to-face with it first.
[edit] Tips
Remember once you choose a dog it is a life time commitment! Choose wisely and make sure you are truly ready to own and care for a dog.
Once you choose your dog keep in mind that it’s important to train them. Otherwise you’re going to be cleaning up a lot of messes. Think about weather you want to train your dog yourself or whether you want to have them trained by a professional.
Keep in mind that when you first bring your dog home it most likely will be frightened of its new environment. Let him/her get used to its you and its new home before attempting to teach and play with him/her.
Don’t forget to ask about your dog’s medical history. Has he/she had all their shots? If not make sure to make a veterinary appointment for your dog as soon as possible.
[edit] Warnings
Make sure to check over any dog that catches your eye before making a finally decision. Is the dog aggressive? Does it look healthy? Ask to hold and play with different dogs before choosing.
[edit] Things You'll Need
Leash
Dog/puppy food
Water and food bowls
Chew toys
A collar
Lots of love to give
Not sure what kind of dog you want? Choosing a breed can be the hardest part of getting a dog. Read on to discover how to choose the breed that’s right for you!
[edit] Steps
Try making a list of qualities you would like to see in the breed you choose. Do you want an extra-small, small, extra-medium, medium, extra-large, or large dog? A purebred or a mix? Does the breed need to be good with kids?
Check out some books from the library on dog breeds, or look up different breeds on the internet. Make sure to keep in mind the qualities you want this breed to have.
Still can't choose? Try finding some local breeders if your interested in a purebred or visit your local animal shelter. Sometimes the easiest way to choose a dog is to come face-to-face with it first.
[edit] Tips
Remember once you choose a dog it is a life time commitment! Choose wisely and make sure you are truly ready to own and care for a dog.
Once you choose your dog keep in mind that it’s important to train them. Otherwise you’re going to be cleaning up a lot of messes. Think about weather you want to train your dog yourself or whether you want to have them trained by a professional.
Keep in mind that when you first bring your dog home it most likely will be frightened of its new environment. Let him/her get used to its you and its new home before attempting to teach and play with him/her.
Don’t forget to ask about your dog’s medical history. Has he/she had all their shots? If not make sure to make a veterinary appointment for your dog as soon as possible.
[edit] Warnings
Make sure to check over any dog that catches your eye before making a finally decision. Is the dog aggressive? Does it look healthy? Ask to hold and play with different dogs before choosing.
[edit] Things You'll Need
Leash
Dog/puppy food
Water and food bowls
Chew toys
A collar
Lots of love to give
How to Train Your Dog for a Dog Show
Do you think your dog has what it takes to be a show dog? If you can imagine your precious pooch winning a championship, then you can always hire a handler to show your dog for you, but the rewards and experience of handling your own dog may make it worth your while. However, before your dog can trot to success, it needs to be trained for the stage in order to steal the audience.
[edit] Steps
Teach your dog to “stack” or stand squarely and still. Some breeds are free stacked, with the handler standing in front of them while the dog watches the handler and stands still and alert. Other breeds are “hand stacked” with each leg manually placed in position while the handler stands or kneels close to them. Figure out which one you need to do and be consistent in training.
Sometimes with wiggly dogs it’s easier to stack them on blocks, boards or bricks that are elevated a few inches off the ground so the dog learns to trust where you set his feet and feels secure with your placement, but if he moves his feet on his own he becomes unbalanced.
Never scold, but be firm. You want the stacking experience to be positive and consistent but not scary for your dog.
Front legs should be straight (or as straight as is allowed for your breed) and should be under the shoulder blades. Rear legs should be vertical from the hock down (for most breeds, most notably different is the German Shepherd Dog, who has a distinctive stack).
Feet should be facing forward, unless contraindicated for your breed.
Work on your dog's expression. You want him to also look alert and happy when he is stacked. Most breeds need to have their attention on the handler and the judge, and have their ears perked and their eyes on your hand or straight ahead. To do this you have two controls, the lead/collar and the bait.
The bait is your dog’s treats, and most puppies are started with nibbling on bait while the bait is held at the level where the head and neck are high and correct. As your dog gets used to holding his head here, then try pulling the bait away quickly to get his attention and focus on the bait.
Also, as he gets used to focusing on the bait, you can use the collar to help keep his head still, by putting the collar up close behind their ears and holding it up firmly, but not so high as to string him up and stretch his neck up too much.
Practice gaiting. Gaiting is moving your dog in a way to allow the judge to see their movement and structure. The correct gait is a trot (with few exceptions).
A trotting dog’s right front leg and left back leg move forward at the same time, then the left front with the right back. If the dog is moving the front and back leg on the same side of his body together, this is pacing. Pacing is incorrect (except for the Old English Sheepdog) and should be avoided. Trotting is the correct pace because it shows the dog’s true structure the best. So, depending on the size of your dog, you will need to adjust your pace so that dog is trotting at the correct speed. The best way to do this is practice. You’ll want to hold your whole lead in your left hand and the dog will trot on your left side.
Start by getting your dog’s attention and take a few steps forward before setting your pace. Trot your dog in a straight line, approximately 30-40 feet then turn around and trot him back. Once you return to the spot that you started, get your dog’s attention and try to get him to free-stack as best you can and focus on the treat that you have in your right hand. That is a “Down and Back,” one of the foundations of how your dog will be evaluated in the ring. Oftentimes, when you show, you’ll only be asked to take your dog down and back, and then around the ring to the end of the line.
Find a kennel club or practice group in your area and try to go to group classes to get you dog used to being in a show ring with other dogs. If you can’t find classes, look for local dog shows that have matches. Matches are informal fun shows that are usually judged by club members or aspiring judges and is great practice for your dog.
Practice and have other people act as the judge and “go over” or examine your dog. They will especially need to examine your dog’s teeth and ears, as many dogs don’t like that, and also ask him to pick up feet and look at them, lift the tail (if your dog has one) and feel the testicles if applicable. These are all things the dog will need to be used to strangers doing to him if he’s to be a show dog.
[edit] Tips
If possible, practice stacking and baiting in front of a mirror so you can see your dog from the judge’s perspective.
Watch as many handlers showing their dogs as you can, watch televised dog shows and also go to as many shows in person as possible. See how your breed is shown specifically and look for the fine nuances that make your breed unique. Watch professionals as they show all breeds and see what sets them apart in how they handle their dogs.
Check the rules and regulations of the kennel club, and the registering body of the shows you are entering to familiarize yourself with the requirements.
For training, don't think you can just use a regular nylon or leather collar and leash. You need to use real conformation leads or your dog will fail in the show ring. Also, you need to train with the correct leads or your dog will not be comfortable in them in the show. There are two main types of leads you can use:
Martingales leads are easy to find, and the dogs love them! This is because they are comfortable, and these leads help to train your dog to keep its head held up high while showing judge's their gait, and while stacking. These can come in chain or nylon varieties, don't confuse the chain variety with the chain lead. This is mostly used on puppies or small dogs, like miniature dachshunds, but some larger dogs still use them. On puppies, only use nylon martingales until they are at least 8 months old.
The other commonly used lead is the chain and show lead. This is not as elegant as the martingale, but many handlers use this on larger, boxier breeds such as the Rottweiler. These also help your dog to keep its head held high, and to not run away in the ring. The chain comes in three colors. These are silver, gold, and copper. The lead is very short and is sold separately. The lead can come in as many colors as the martingale.
It is easier on puppies if you use the martingale, and if so desired, when the puppy is at least 8 months old you can only start training it to use the chain.
[edit] Warnings
Make sure your dog is not spayed or neutered, because then it cannot show.
Even if you think your dog has what it takes to be a championship conformation dog, don't always count on it.
Make sure you bring your dog's registration papers (for the kennel club), its vaccination papers, and its pedigree papers.
[edit] Related wikiHows
How to Groom Your Dog
How to Buy a Purebred Puppy
How to Temperament Test a Dog
How to Become a Professional Dog Walker
How to Teach Your Dog to Whoa
How to Be a Good Dog Owner
How to Train a Golden Retriever
How to Crate Train Your Dog or Puppy
How to Train Your Dog to Hunt
How to Get Started Clicker Training Your Dog
How to Become a Dog Trainer
How to Find and Choose a Dog Trainer
How to Break a Puppy from Peeing when Greeted
How to House Train a Puppy
How to Buy a Purebred Puppy
How to Train a Bullheaded Puppy
How to Choose a German Shepherd Puppy
How to Select a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
How to Breed English Bulldogs
How to Raise an American Bulldog
How to Care for Min Pins
How to Groom and Train a Yorkshire Terrier
How to Make Your Labrador Retriever Happier
How to Select a Labrador Retriever
How to Groom Your Dog
How to Approach a Shy or Fearful Dog
How to Help a Shy Dog Blossom Using Targeting and Clicker Training
How to Be a Responsible Dog Owner
How to Groom a Longhair Dog
How to Get Your Yorkie to Stop Biting and Barking at You
How to Help Teething Pups
Do you think your dog has what it takes to be a show dog? If you can imagine your precious pooch winning a championship, then you can always hire a handler to show your dog for you, but the rewards and experience of handling your own dog may make it worth your while. However, before your dog can trot to success, it needs to be trained for the stage in order to steal the audience.
[edit] Steps
Teach your dog to “stack” or stand squarely and still. Some breeds are free stacked, with the handler standing in front of them while the dog watches the handler and stands still and alert. Other breeds are “hand stacked” with each leg manually placed in position while the handler stands or kneels close to them. Figure out which one you need to do and be consistent in training.
Sometimes with wiggly dogs it’s easier to stack them on blocks, boards or bricks that are elevated a few inches off the ground so the dog learns to trust where you set his feet and feels secure with your placement, but if he moves his feet on his own he becomes unbalanced.
Never scold, but be firm. You want the stacking experience to be positive and consistent but not scary for your dog.
Front legs should be straight (or as straight as is allowed for your breed) and should be under the shoulder blades. Rear legs should be vertical from the hock down (for most breeds, most notably different is the German Shepherd Dog, who has a distinctive stack).
Feet should be facing forward, unless contraindicated for your breed.
Work on your dog's expression. You want him to also look alert and happy when he is stacked. Most breeds need to have their attention on the handler and the judge, and have their ears perked and their eyes on your hand or straight ahead. To do this you have two controls, the lead/collar and the bait.
The bait is your dog’s treats, and most puppies are started with nibbling on bait while the bait is held at the level where the head and neck are high and correct. As your dog gets used to holding his head here, then try pulling the bait away quickly to get his attention and focus on the bait.
Also, as he gets used to focusing on the bait, you can use the collar to help keep his head still, by putting the collar up close behind their ears and holding it up firmly, but not so high as to string him up and stretch his neck up too much.
Practice gaiting. Gaiting is moving your dog in a way to allow the judge to see their movement and structure. The correct gait is a trot (with few exceptions).
A trotting dog’s right front leg and left back leg move forward at the same time, then the left front with the right back. If the dog is moving the front and back leg on the same side of his body together, this is pacing. Pacing is incorrect (except for the Old English Sheepdog) and should be avoided. Trotting is the correct pace because it shows the dog’s true structure the best. So, depending on the size of your dog, you will need to adjust your pace so that dog is trotting at the correct speed. The best way to do this is practice. You’ll want to hold your whole lead in your left hand and the dog will trot on your left side.
Start by getting your dog’s attention and take a few steps forward before setting your pace. Trot your dog in a straight line, approximately 30-40 feet then turn around and trot him back. Once you return to the spot that you started, get your dog’s attention and try to get him to free-stack as best you can and focus on the treat that you have in your right hand. That is a “Down and Back,” one of the foundations of how your dog will be evaluated in the ring. Oftentimes, when you show, you’ll only be asked to take your dog down and back, and then around the ring to the end of the line.
Find a kennel club or practice group in your area and try to go to group classes to get you dog used to being in a show ring with other dogs. If you can’t find classes, look for local dog shows that have matches. Matches are informal fun shows that are usually judged by club members or aspiring judges and is great practice for your dog.
Practice and have other people act as the judge and “go over” or examine your dog. They will especially need to examine your dog’s teeth and ears, as many dogs don’t like that, and also ask him to pick up feet and look at them, lift the tail (if your dog has one) and feel the testicles if applicable. These are all things the dog will need to be used to strangers doing to him if he’s to be a show dog.
[edit] Tips
If possible, practice stacking and baiting in front of a mirror so you can see your dog from the judge’s perspective.
Watch as many handlers showing their dogs as you can, watch televised dog shows and also go to as many shows in person as possible. See how your breed is shown specifically and look for the fine nuances that make your breed unique. Watch professionals as they show all breeds and see what sets them apart in how they handle their dogs.
Check the rules and regulations of the kennel club, and the registering body of the shows you are entering to familiarize yourself with the requirements.
For training, don't think you can just use a regular nylon or leather collar and leash. You need to use real conformation leads or your dog will fail in the show ring. Also, you need to train with the correct leads or your dog will not be comfortable in them in the show. There are two main types of leads you can use:
Martingales leads are easy to find, and the dogs love them! This is because they are comfortable, and these leads help to train your dog to keep its head held up high while showing judge's their gait, and while stacking. These can come in chain or nylon varieties, don't confuse the chain variety with the chain lead. This is mostly used on puppies or small dogs, like miniature dachshunds, but some larger dogs still use them. On puppies, only use nylon martingales until they are at least 8 months old.
The other commonly used lead is the chain and show lead. This is not as elegant as the martingale, but many handlers use this on larger, boxier breeds such as the Rottweiler. These also help your dog to keep its head held high, and to not run away in the ring. The chain comes in three colors. These are silver, gold, and copper. The lead is very short and is sold separately. The lead can come in as many colors as the martingale.
It is easier on puppies if you use the martingale, and if so desired, when the puppy is at least 8 months old you can only start training it to use the chain.
[edit] Warnings
Make sure your dog is not spayed or neutered, because then it cannot show.
Even if you think your dog has what it takes to be a championship conformation dog, don't always count on it.
Make sure you bring your dog's registration papers (for the kennel club), its vaccination papers, and its pedigree papers.
[edit] Related wikiHows
How to Groom Your Dog
How to Buy a Purebred Puppy
How to Temperament Test a Dog
How to Become a Professional Dog Walker
How to Teach Your Dog to Whoa
How to Be a Good Dog Owner
How to Train a Golden Retriever
How to Crate Train Your Dog or Puppy
How to Train Your Dog to Hunt
How to Get Started Clicker Training Your Dog
How to Become a Dog Trainer
How to Find and Choose a Dog Trainer
How to Break a Puppy from Peeing when Greeted
How to House Train a Puppy
How to Buy a Purebred Puppy
How to Train a Bullheaded Puppy
How to Choose a German Shepherd Puppy
How to Select a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
How to Breed English Bulldogs
How to Raise an American Bulldog
How to Care for Min Pins
How to Groom and Train a Yorkshire Terrier
How to Make Your Labrador Retriever Happier
How to Select a Labrador Retriever
How to Groom Your Dog
How to Approach a Shy or Fearful Dog
How to Help a Shy Dog Blossom Using Targeting and Clicker Training
How to Be a Responsible Dog Owner
How to Groom a Longhair Dog
How to Get Your Yorkie to Stop Biting and Barking at You
How to Help Teething Pups
Saturday, November 10, 2007
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Rottweiler
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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This article is about the dog breed. For other uses, see Rottweiler (disambiguation).
Rottweiler
A Rottweiler with a docked tail.
Country of origin
Germany
Common nicknames
RottieRott
Classification and breed standards
FCI:
Group 2 Section 2 #147
Stds
AKC:
Working
Stds
ANKC:
Group 6 (Utility)
Stds
CKC:
Group 3 - Working
Stds
KC (UK):
Working
Stds
NZKC:
Utility
Stds
UKC:
Guardian Dog
Stds
A Rottweiler is a large dog breed originating in Germany.
Contents[hide]
1 Appearance
2 Temperament
3 Health
4 History
5 The Rottweiler in Media
5.1 Books
5.2 Film and Television
5.3 Comics
6 Safety
7 References
8 External links
//
[edit] Appearance
A rottweiler puppy.
The breed is almost always black with clearly defined tan or mahogany markings on the cheeks, muzzle, chest, legs, and eyebrows. The markings on the chest should form two distinct upside-down triangles, and even a tiny patch of white in between is not acceptable for show dogs, because white indicates a substandard breed. The cheeks should have clearly defined spots that should be separate from the muzzle tan. The muzzle tan should continue over the throat. Each eyebrow should have a spot. Markings on the legs should not be above a third of the leg. On each toe should be a black 'pencil' mark, and the nails are black. Underneath the tail should also be tan.[1] The coat is medium length and consists of a waterproof undercoat and a coarse top coat. Rottweiler coats tend to be low maintenance, although they experience shedding during certain periods of the year.
The skull is typically massive, but without excessive jowls. The forehead may be wrinkly when the Rottweiler is alert, but otherwise the skin should be relatively fitted, or "dry." A Rottweiler's eyes are a warm, dark brown — any other color does not exemplify the desired breed type. The expression should be calm, intelligent, alert, and fearless. The ears are small drop ears whose inner edges are flush with the head. 'Flying' ears are considered undesirable. Inside the mouth, dark lips and gums are preferred, although the tongue is pink. Blotchy pigmentation is undesirable and complete lack of pigment ("bubble-gum pink") is listed as a serious fault in the AKC standard for the breed. Naturally, Rottweilers are a tailed dog. There are at least two different explanations as to why tails were originally bobbed. One version is that tails were originally removed to prevent breakage and infection that would occur when the tail became covered in mud and other debris collected from pastures and livestock. Another is that as working dogs they were bobbed to avoid a "tail tax" (the method used to count livestock being driven to market was to count tails). Today, many owners in U.S. decide to have the tails removed soon after the puppy's birth for purely cosmetic reasons. The tail is usually docked to the first joint, and in general should give the impression of a lengthened topline. In the past docking was a commonly accepted practice, but it has been banned in many European countries and Australia as well as Mexico. The chest is deep and should reach the dog's elbows, giving tremendous lung capacity. The back should be straight, never sloping. According to FCI standard, the Rottweiler stands 61 to 68 cm (24-27 inches) at the withers for males, and 56 to 63 cm (22-25 inches) for females.[2] Average weight is 50 kg (110 pounds) for males and 42 kg (95 pounds) for females.
[edit] Temperament
An undocked Rottweiler in profile
In the hands of a responsible owner, a well-trained and socialized Rottweiler can be a reliable, alert dog and a loving companion. However, any poorly trained dog can become a danger in the wrong circumstances. In general Rottweilers are fond of children, very devoted, quick to learn, and eager to please. They are typically very bright dogs. Rottweilers are playful animals who may frequently demand attention from their owners. However, if they are not receiving the mental stimulation they desire, they will find creative and sometimes destructive ways to elicit it. Such behavioral problems as chewing, barking for attention and eating less can be a result of lack of human interaction. The Rottweiler is a good working dog that is also good for protection of children, as well as guard duties.
The Rottweiler is a steady dog with a self-assured nature, but early socialization and exposure to as many new people, animals, and situations as possible are very important in developing these qualities. The Rottweiler also has a natural tendency to assert dominance if not properly trained. Rottweilers' large size and strength make this an important point to consider: an untrained, poorly trained, or abused Rottweiler can learn to be extremely aggressive and destructive and, if allowed to run at large, may pose a significant physical threat to humans or other animals. They can be strong-willed (bull-headed) and should be trained in a firm, fair, and consistent manner - the owner must be perceived as the leader. If the owner fails to achieve this status the Rottweiler will readily take on the role. However, Rottweilers respond readily to a clear and benevolent leader. Aggression in Rottweilers is associated with poor breeding, poor handling, lack of socialization, natural guarding tendencies, and abuse.
The Rottweiler is not usually a barker. Male dogs are silent watchers who notice everything and are often quite stoic. Females may become problem barkers in order to protect their den. An attentive owner is usually able to recognize when a Rottweiler perceives a threat. Barking is usually a sign of annoyance with external factors (car alarms or other disturbances) rather than a response to actual threats.
The Rottweiler Welfare Association offers the following advice for would-be Rottweiler owners:[3]
[edit] Health
A male runt Rottweiler; puppies that are atypical of the breed standard are often sold by breeders as family pets.
The Rottweiler is a tough and hardy breed, but potential owners should be aware of known health issues that can affect this breed. The most serious genetic health risks a Rottweiler faces are canine hip dysplasia (CHD), subvalvular aortic stenosis (SAS), elbow dysplasia, and osteosarcoma. Other conditions which may affect this breed include hypothyroidism, gastric torsion (bloat), and allergies.[4] Rottweiler owners should have their dogs' hips, elbows, heart, and eyes tested by a veterinarian before breeding. DNA tests should also be performed to screen for von Willebrand's disease (vWD). Rottweilers typically live between 8 and 11 years.[5]
[edit] History
The breed is an ancient one, and its history stretches back to the Roman Empire. In those times, the legions traveled with their meat on the hoof and required the assistance of working dogs to herd the cattle. One route the army traveled was through Württemberg and on to the small market town of Rottweil. The principal ancestors of the first Rottweilers during this time was supposed to be the Roman war dog, local sheepdogs the army met on its travels, and dogs with molosser appearance coming from England and The Netherlands.
This region eventually became an important cattle area, and the descendants of the Roman cattle dogs proved their worth in both driving and protecting the cattle from robbers and wild animals. However, by the end of the 19th Century, the breed had declined so much that in 1900 there was only one female to be found in the town of Rottweil. But the build up to the World War I saw a great demand for police dogs, and that led to a revival of interest in the Rottweiler.
From that time the breed has become popular with dog owners, and in 1935 was officially recognized by the American Kennel Club. In 1936, Rottweilers were exhibited in Britain at Crufts. In 1966, a separate register was opened for the breed.
The first Rottweiler club in Germany, named DRK ("Deutscher Rottweiler-Klub" — German Rottweiler Club) was created the 13 January 1907, and followed by the creation of the SDRK ("Süddeutscher Rottweiler-Klub" — South German Rottweiler Club) on the 27 April 1907 and became the IRK (International Rottweiler Club). The DRK counted around 500 Rottweiler, the SDRK 3000 Rottweilers. The goals of the two clubs were different. The DRK wanted to produce working dogs and did not emphasize the morphology of the Rottweiler. The main stud dog of this club was Lord von der Teck. The IRK tried to produce a homogeneous morphology according to their standard. One of the main stud dogs of this club was Ralph von Neckar.
A popular misconception about the Rottweiler is that the breed was bred for dog fighting.
[edit] The Rottweiler in Media
Good Dog, Carl book cover
[edit] Books
Bruiser,[6] from the Burke series of novels by Andrew Vachss.
Carl, from Good Dog, Carl.
"Hoot," from "Carl Hiaasen."
[edit] Film and Television
Reggie, from Las Vegas.
Arnold, from Entourage.
Cofi, from Amores Perros.
Fang from Dumb and Dumberer.
Gerta and Muzzle/Scout, from Road Rovers.
Killer, from Half Baked.
A Rottweiler was the host of the Xenomorph in the theatrical version of Alien 3.
Mirror-Universe Porthos, from Star Trek: Enterprise (in the "normal" universe, Porthos is a beagle.)
Prince, from The People Under the Stairs.
Snots, from National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation.
Triumph the Insult Comic Dog is a puppet of a Rottweiler.
The Master's Devil Dog in Manos: The Hands of Fate
A Rottweiler appears as the Bueller family pet in Ferris Bueller's Day Off.
A Rottweiler guards the cemetery in the Pet Sematary.
Rottweilers appear as security dogs in Catch That Kid.
Rottweilers chase Gregory Peck in The Omen.
A Rottweiler is (humorously) taken in by Martin Riggs in Lethal Weapon 3, and reappears as his and Lorna Cole's pet along with Riggs' other dog in Lethal Weapon 4.
A Rottweiler appears in the animated film Over the Hedge chasing RJ and Verne and later biting Dwayne.
A Rottweiler kept by Coop and Remer attacks Squeak in Baseketball.
Riff Raff, in the movie Underdog.
Two Rottweilers appear in Conan the Barbarian.
Bruiser falls in love with Leslie, a congressman's Rottweiler in Legally Blonde 2: Red, White & Blonde.
Latrell Spencer's pet dog from White Chicks.
Cujo, Brett's dog from Kath and Kim.
A Rottweiler appears as the Callahan guard dog who attacks Paul (Rob Lowe) in Tommy Boy.
[edit] Comics
Max from The Punisher.
[edit] Safety
A Rottweiler barking and displaying its teeth
In recent years the breed has received some negative publicity, possibly related to the fact that Rottweilers were the number two breed of dog named in fatal human attacks from 1979 to 1998 in a report by the CDC.[7]. Unscrupulous breeders have produced dogs with highly aggressive tendencies and some owners have used the dogs as guard or protection dogs. Other owners may acquire a Rottweiler for a family pet, but neglect to properly socialize and train the animal, resulting in a dangerous, unpredictable dog. The portrayal of Rottweilers as evil dogs in several fictional films and TV series, most notably in The Omen, has contributed to this negative publicity. Citing recent dog attacks involving the breed, some States of Germany put the Rottweiler on an index of dangerous dogs. The states adopting the legislation are Bavaria, Brandenburg and North Rhine-Westphalia. Visitors and residents must obey the local muzzling and leash-length laws.
[edit] References
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